Wednesday 15 November 2017

The Blue Fire Rings of Ijen

Introduction:

Blue Fire of Ijen
From the Paltuding post of Banyuwangi, starts the journey to chase the mysterious blue fire ring of Ijen. Speaking of mysterious, what could be more so, than trekking 3 Kms uphill with nothing but dark hill scapes all around you, in the wee hours of the night, with temperature going down from 10 degrees (at the base) to 5 degrees (at the top). The smell of sulphur gets stronger with each step towards the top of the mountain. Once finally there, as you struggle to catch a breath, you are greeted by a surreal play of electric blue flames. Now, the hypnotic blue fire draws you towards itself and you go further downhill towards the source and stand in awe as it dazzles your eyes.

The blue flame is ignited sulphuric gas, which arises from cracks at temperatures up to 600 degrees. The flames can be up to 5 metres high. It is the largest blue flame area in the world and local people refer to it as 'Blue Fire'. To go near the bank of the crater, you need to wear the mask due to the sulphur smokes.



The Lake:

Now, if you thought the blue fire is the only attraction of this area, you couldn't be more wrong. As the rising sun breaks the mysteries of the night and the blue flame vanishes with the advent of the light, the dawn unveils the lovely turquoise Crater Lake. This acidic lake is 1 km wide, the largest highly acidic lake in the world. An active vent at the edge of the lake is a source of elemental sulphur. The green of the lake, the yellow deposits contrasted against the grey surface of the bank, the blue of the sky and the smoke continue to paint the mysterious scenery of the caldera.

Ijen crater lake in daylight

Sulphur Mining:


Miners carry an approximate load of 50 kgs of sulphur in baskets per trip all the way up to the rim of the crater and then downhill to Paltuding, where a nearby sugar refinery pay them by the weight of sulphur transported. The workers also sell sulphur handicrafts for a humble price (can be bargained); though the tourists must take a note here that airport security will NOT allow any form of sulphur in the luggage or handbag.

Getting there:

The 3 kms trek to the Ijen volcano starts at Paltuding post, which can be reached from Banyuwangi or Bondowoso, depending on which route you are taking, the latter involving less transport changes.

If you are coming from Bali, you can take the ferry from Gilimanuk to Ketapang. From Ketapang, you can opt for a Bemo to Banyuwangi. From there, Paltuding post is about 1.5 to 2 hours' drive.

If you are coming from Surabaya or Mount Bromo, Bondowoso is more convenient. Buses run from Probolinggo to Bondowoso. From Bondowoso, you can take the morning bus for Sempol, from where you can hire an ojek to drop you off at Paltuding post.

The hike from Paltuding post is quite straight forward and can be done without a guide as well.

Getting around:


For visiting Ijen crater, you need to trek about 3 kms uphill to reach the rim and 1.5 kms downhill further to reach the bank of the crater. This entire trek takes around 1.5 – 2.5 hours depending on your fitness level. Alternately, you may opt to take the helpers to carry you to the top for 1.500.000 IDR. There is no other alternative available for this route


Weather in Paltuding / Ijen:


The temperature at the base of the Ijen trek during the night could be as low as 10 degrees and at the rim of the crater could be even colder upto 5 degrees.


Good to know:
  • You must carry woollen gloves, socks and ear / head covers as it is quite cold
  • You must carry masks to the Ijen crater due to the sulphur smokes
  • You must prepare the cash to pay the entry fees to Ijen crater on the spot
  • The Ijen blue flames are visible only until sunrise and the entire trek takes around 1.5 – 2.5 hours depending on your fitness level. Hence, you must plan the starting time accordingly.
Ideal Time Commitment: A weekend

Recommended Detour: Take a bus from Bondowoso to Probolinggo and another from there to Cemoro Lawang, the base for hiking Mount Bromo.


Suggested Itinerary: Bromo - Ijen combined itinerary 4D / 3N

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