Thursday 1 December 2016

Mount Bromo and Ijen Crater - Itinerary

Introduction:

This itinerary covers the two major attractions around Surabaya, which are the Bromo and the Ijen crater. From Surabaya, the route to Probolinggo remains the same; from there one route leads to Cemoro Lawang, which is the base for Bromo trek and another route leads to Bondowoso for onwards journey to Paltuding, which is the base for Ijen trek.

This itinerary is a 4D / 3N itinerary using public transports for the travel. However, if you're drivng or hiring private car, you might be able to make it within 3D / 2N also.

Also, because the suggested itinerary is based on public transport, you must look up the bus schedules, consider delays and accordingly book the flight timings.

Package Tour:

Some tour operators in Surabaya offer 3D / 2N package covering Mount Bromo and Ijen crater. These packages are good especially if you are on a packed schedule, otherwise materializing this itinerary on a short trip is a bit difficult. Budget package could cost around 1.500.000 IDR per person (2016) including accommodation and transportation and breakfast in Banwyuwangi, and welcome snacks. Meals are on your own. If you have more people travelling, you can negotiate a bit on the price as well.

DIY Itinerary:

Day 1: Arrive Cemoro Lawang: From the Surabaya airport, board a public bus to Probolinggo (or, hire a taxi to Probolinggo, but you need to haggle for prices). Small buses connect Probolinggo to Cemoro Lawang, which is the base for the Bromo trek. Spend the rest of the day exploring the small hamlet. Prepare for an early morning start for the next day. Arrange for Jeep 4WD for the next morning unless you wish to trek to the sunrise point.

Day 2: Sunrise - Sea of Sand - Bromo trek: At 4 am, the jeep picks you up from the accommodation for the Penjakan view point. The sunrise is around 5 am. If you wish to trek, the trek takes around 2-2.5 hours. Hence, you need to plan the start time accordingly. Due to the crowd in Penjakan, alternate viewpoints have been opened with equally spectacular view. One of them is the King Kong Hills.

Enjoy the view, sipping a cup of hot coffee and cuppa noodles from the local vendors, before proceeding towards Mount Bromo.

Take a halt on the way at the sea of sand to enjoy the panorama, which is truly breathtaking.

Next, proceed towards Mount Bromo trail head. You may opt for a soft trek or horse ride to reach the base of the 250 steps which you need to climb to reach the rim of the crater. The entire trek (without horse ride option) takes around 45 mins to 1 hour.

Just before the mountain base of Bromo, sits a Hindu temple called Pura Luhur Poten. The temple holds a significant importance to the Tenggerese spread across the mountain hamlets.

After having some local breakfast at a nearby stall, head back to your accommodation, freshen up and board a bus back to Probolinggo. From Probolinggo, buses are available to Bondowoso. Spend the rest of the day at leisure.

Alternately, you may opt for the 7-8 hours' drive to Banyuwangi, which is another 1-2 hours' drive from Paltuding, the base for Ijen trek. This option saves you a day but the journey is hectic.

Day 3: Arrive Sempol / Paltuding: From Bondowoso, you can take the morning bus for Sempol, from where you can hire an ojek to drop you off at Paltuding post. Spend the rest of the day at leisure and prepare for an early morning next day, as the trek to catch the blue flames of Ijen starts at 2 am.

With the driving option, you save this day.

For accommodation, you can opt to stay at the Paltuding post itself, which offers camps but at a much higher rate. Or, you can stay at cheaper accommodations at Sempol (with bus option) or in Banyuwangi (with drive option).

Day 4: Trek Ijen: Unless you're staying at Paltuding, you must start from your accommodation by 12:30 am. The trek opens up for public at 2 am. Food stalls are present at the base of the post to have some quick snacks and drinks before the trek starts, which is a good idea despite a bit higher price, because the only food stall available during the trek is in the midway halting area.

The total trek uphill is about 3 Kms, of which, the first 2 kms is through steep inclined land, while the last 1 km is less inclined. The total trek takes around 1.5-2 hours (depending on fitness level) to reach the rim of the Ijen Crater.

To go near the bank of the crater, you need to wear the mask due to the sulphur smokes.

While the wee hours of night gives the stunning view of the blue flames, under the daylight it unveils the lovely turquoise Crater Lake. Enjoy the stunning views before heading back to the head of the trail. Here, there are plenty of buses and ojeks to bring you back to Bondowoso directly, or to Sempol, where you can take some rest before proceeding to Bondowoso. From Bondowoso, buses connect to Surabaya. This ride takes around 5 hours.

Good to know:
  • You must carry woollen gloves, socks and ear / head covers as it is quite cold
  • You must carry masks to the Ijen crater due to the sulphur smokes.
  • You must prepare the cash to pay the entry fees to Ijen and Bromo on the spot
  • The Ijen blue flames are visible only until sunrise and the entire trek takes around 1.5 – 2.5 hours depending on your fitness level. Hence, you must plan the starting time accordingly.
  • Souvenir ideas: Near Bromo, a no. of sellers sell handicrafts made of “forever love” flowers
Recommended read:

Tuesday 15 November 2016

Cameron Highlands: Weekend getaway from Kuala Lumpur

Characteristics: Green hills, tea plantation, various farms like bees, berries, etc., jungle trails. Cool foggy weather.

Cost summary:
Review ( out of 5)
Kuala Lumpur TBS Bus Station <-> Tanah Rata (per head one way via Unititi Express)
35 MYR
3
Hotel per night (Triple sharing)
180 MYR
4
Food in Tanah Rata
$
4
Night market shopping
$
4

Good to know:
As per the local tour companies, the season for spotting Rafflesia is September-Early October, which is the rainy season. Although, this flower is a rare occurrence and the time for spotting cannot really be predicted
The whole jungle trek takes around 8 hours so the treks need to start early in order to finish by daylight. Only Mossy forest treks can be shorter and can start later
The viewing tower access for Mount Brinchang might be closed for public on foggy days
Visit to the Orang Asli village and any tours involving Rafflesia spotting do not operate unless it is the season for the flower
Most of the shops here close by 10 pm, except for the massage parlours and a few restaurants and coffee shops
If you know driving a drive to Cameron is the best option to explore here, as most of the attractions are near to each other and you get to spend as much time in each place as you want, as well as avoid places that you are not so keen to visit

Getting there:

You can take bus to Tanah Rata from Kuala Lumpur TBS terminal. The total journey took around 4 hours, being delayed by an hour. The town’s centre is a few minutes’ walk from the bus station. You can also drive to Tanah Rata, Brinchang or Ringlet. Most of the local attractions are scattered around Brinchang and Ringlet. However, most of the buses drop you off at Tanah Rata only.

Getting around:

You can take a leisure walk to cover Tanah Rata or walk upto Brinchang. For getting to the attractions like the farms, or the tea plantation, however, you might want to take a cab or book a tour. If you are driving on your own, getting around is comparatively easier and independent.

Accommodation:

In Tanah Rata town center, you can find a no. of budget friendly hotels. You can simply walk in and book.



View of Tanah Rata bus terminus from a cafe near the town centre
Attractions:

Ee Feng Gu Bee Farm: About 3.5km north of Brinchang town, right after Equatorial Resort, along the main road, Ee Feng Gu Bee Farm is an apiary in Kea Farm, an agricultural district in Cameron. The main building has shopping gallery, indoor maze for children, vegetable market, mini museum and cafeteria. The walking trail leads to the bee farm area which has a number of hives scattered around the garden, with statues of queen and worker bees and small water containers. There is no entry fees required for the bees farm.
Ideal time commitment: 30 - 45 mins

Bees at work


A beehive

Butterfly Farm: Another tourist attraction in Kea Farm. It has a display of live butterflies, insects and animals. The farm does not really breed or cultivate them as the name might suggest, rather, the population is restocked regularly. The park has a garden section, where butterflies roam around with a backdrop of shrubs and flowers. And, there is the larger zoological wing, where other insects, lizards, snakes and mammals are displayed in enclosures or tanks. Here you can find large grasshoppers, stick insects, scorpions, vine snakes, turtles to name a few. There is also a varied range of flowers like rose, lavender, morning glory, chrysanthemum, hibiscus, geranium and a variety of orchids. Entry fees to the butterfly farm is MYR5 per adult and MYR2 per child.
Ideal time commitment: 45 mins to 1 hour

Butterfly Farm
Ladies' slipper, one of the many orchids found in the butterfly farm

Strawberry Farm: Raaju's Hill is a strawberry farm and cafe on a hilltop at Kea Farm, situated along the main road. The farm offers strawberry picking by weight or fresh strawberries sold at the counter daily. For strawberry picking, they have a 500 grams marker in the basket. You might pick less or more than that, but need to pay the minimum amount for 500 grams. One basket is limited to 2-3 people. For those who are only there for visiting and not picking, their entry is restricted to 3-4 rows. Picking rows start after that. Strawberry picking could be fun, but it is expensive compared to the freshly picked strawberries sold in packets, which often taste better than the handpicked ones. If you are not into picking strawberries, you might want to go for some strawberry products’ shopping (night market would be a cheaper option, though) or hang out in the cafe that has an extended dining deck. There is also a small roof terrace that overlooks the rainforest starting from Mount Brinchang. The wind here is very cool and relaxing. So you can enjoy the view here, sipping some hot beverages, as the wind flirts with your hairs and face.
Ideal time commitment: 45 mins to 1 hour

Strawberry farm

Rose Center: A flower garden at Kea Farm. Walking up the steps, visitors will pass through lush gardens on the slopes along the small hill. Near the top, another pathway leads to a peak with views of the surrounding landscapes and vegetable farms. Tickets cost MYR5 for adults and MYR2 for children. The Rose Center has a wide display of a variety of roses, carnation flowers, fuchsia and many other flowers. The pathways are adorned with statues and figures from Fairy tales and zodiac signs.
Ideal time commitment: 45 mins to 1 hour


A pink rose, one of the many varieties of roses displayed in the rose centre


Sam Poh temple: A temple in Brinchang having a good view of the Brinchang town. Built in 1972, this is the fourth largest Buddhist temple in the country. 
Ideal time commitment: 30-45 mins

Night market: The Night Market is open every Friday and Saturday in Brinchang town. Here, you can find a variety of products native to Cameron Highlands at cheap, affordable price range. This includes strawberries and strawberry products, vegetables, fruits, different flavours of tea, decorative plants and souvenirs. There is also a big section of the market dedicated for the local food specialties where you can put your taste buds to some delicious use.
Ideal time commitment: 1-2 hours

Vantage point of the tea plantation: Viewing point giving the bird’s eye view of the ‘Giant Green Carpet of Malaysia’. The view from here is spectacular, with the green slopes and the clear blue sky extending as far as you can see.
Ideal time commitment: 15-20 mins

View of the tea plantation from the view point


Mount Brinchang: The second highest mountain in Cameron Highlands (after Mount Irau) at 2032 meter above sea level. The highest tarmac road in Malaysia leads up to the top. When weather is clear, the watchtower at the peak provides a lovely view of towns, valleys and hills. From here, you can see the fabled Mossy forest and the further jungle trail leading to top of mount Irau (located at the border of Perak and Pahang).
Ideal time commitment: 1-1.5 hours

Foggy road winding down from Mount Brinchang


Mossy forest: At the high elevations near Mount Brinchang, low-level clouds driven by winds, drape the forests with constant mist and moisture - creating an ideal habitat for moss, ferns, lichen and orchids. This moist tropical forest is also the home to a varied set of creatures unique to this chilly atmosphere. Visitors can explore the mossy forest through a trail. The series of wooden boards wind through the mossy forest for about 150m. It gets slippery when wet, so one needs to mind their steps. In this chilly environment, twisted branches of oak trees, layers of moss draping the tree trunks, vines, orchids, pitcher plants and ferns hanging loosely from the canopy or perched silently on branches and stems, together with the misty backdrop, give a feel of a jungle walk straight out of the fairy tales. At the end of the walk, a trail starts towards Mount Irau, the highest mountain in Cameron Highlands.
Ideal time commitment: 45 mins - 1 hour


Moss loosely hanging from the trees

Fog provide the ideal environment for the growth of moss that in turn hang freely forming various designs and shapes

Mossy forest


Boh Tea plantation (Sungai Palas): Boh Tea is the largest producer of tea in Malaysia. Based primarily in Cameron Highlands it has three large plantations across Ringlet and Brinchang. The main estate is in Ringlet. Sungai Palas is a sister plantation in Brinchang. Boh Tea features a colonial-era tea processing factory open to public, offering optional free guided tours. There is also a shopping gallery if you want to buy tea. You might even want to spend some time knowing the history or the working of the factory described through the picture walk or the animated show. Alternately, you might want to take the walk through the bushes or simply sit and relax at the café. The café has indoor sitting as well as open air deck overlooking the tea plantation. It serves light snacks and signature BOH tea.
Ideal time commitment: 1.5-2 hours

View of the tea plantation from the open deck of the cafe

Tuesday 18 October 2016

Perhentian Island Rainforest Camping: A unique getaway

Introduction:




Malaysia island, island, Perhentian
Perhentian Kecil Island, Coral Bay side

A secluded small beach, away from the bustling beaches of the island; your own snorkeling paradise; a viewing deck perched on a rock top to watch the lovely sun drop beyond the horizon; a small bar and open deck to chill in the evening looking at the sea while the night fall takes over slowly; swimming with glowing phytoplanktons in the darkness of the night and finally doze off to the sounds of sea waves and rustling of the leaves in the rainforest: the rainforest camping in Perhentian Kecil island is a relaxing getaway, a serene one-of-a-kind experience without blowing a big hole to your pocket!


Cost summary:
Review (out of 5)
Kuala Lumpur TBS Bus Station - Kuala Besut each way
44 MYR
2.5
Kuala Besut Jetty to/from Perhentian Kecil (per head)
35 MYR
3.5
Camp for 2 per night
51 MYR
4.8
Marine park entrance fees (compulsory, per head for Foreigners)
30 MYR
Snorkelling mask rental (per mask per day)
10 MYR
4.5
Fin rental (per fin per day)
5 MYR
4.5
Islands snorkel tour full day (per head)
50 MYR
4.5
Food in Rainforest beach
$$

Good to know:
Mosquito repellent cream is a must have
You must bring enough cash (there is no ATM on the island, cash withdrawal available at the Coral Bay but with additional charges)
Keep some snacks and water bottle in your backpack (for something to munch when the reception is not open, there are no nearby shops: this is a secluded beach)
Bring sunblock and / or hat
The electricity is available at the campsite from 6 pm to 11 pm. So, if you need to charge your phone, this would be the time.
Water taxi prices become double than the normal ones after 6pm and triple after 12 midnight. The normal rate when we went (2016) was RM 5 for Coral Bay and RM 20 for Long Beach.

Getting there:


Regular buses depart from Kuala Lumpur for Kuala Besut. From the bus terminus, the jetty is 10-15 minute's walk. The ticketing counter opens 9 am onwards. From Kuala Besut jetty, the ferry takes about 30 minutes to reach Perhentian Kecil island.

Rainforest beach:


You need to get down from the ferry at the Coral Bay beach as the boats do not dock at the rainforest beach. For the return, let the campsite reception know yout date of return and they will arrange with the boat for your pickup from the rainforest beach itself.

From the Coral Bay, you needed to trek to the rain forest. Alternately, you can take the water taxi to go there; we preferred the trek, though.

From the pier, you walk towards the beach, then continue walking towards the forest area (or ask the shops about the rainforest beach). A very simple way is to follow a big black water pipe that runs through the Coral bay beaches, all the way to the rainforest beach and further.
beach camping, rainforest camping, Malaysia beach
Morning at the rainforest beach

The route is more of a jungle trail. You might encounter some logs fallen here and there, blocking your path, or some big lizards as well, but you need to walk past all those until you reach the camping ground. The total trail takes around 15-20 minutes. The rainforest beach is a small secluded beach with minimum crowd. The tent area is further up (less than a min’s trek) from the reception.
Trekking to the rainforest

The Campsite:

The facilities are very basic here. Within the tent, there are mattresses, pillows, bed sheet and extra sheets. The opening for the tent has a mosquito net and a covered sheet that can be used together or alternately. There is no fan or light within the tent, it’s all natural resources based. The shared toilet and bathing area outside is also very basic. Although the toilet has a fully covered door, the bathing area doors are not high enough (a bit inconvenient for bathing I felt, considering the slope: it would be open view for anyone walking from uphill). There is a wash basin outside. The dining area, the reception and the bar is near the beach.
Campsite
Things to do:
  • Snorkeling: The water around the rainforest beach and around provide nice snorkeling option. You can even spot baby shark, just like we did!
Water near the rainforest beach

    • Climb up to the viewing deck near the reception to catch the sunset view, which is undoubtedly one of the best in the island (just as they rightly claim it to be). The deck overlooks the beach with the forest backdrop on one side; the clear water view just below it; and the ocean stretch in front glittering under the golden rays.
    Sunset view from the viewpoint
    • In the evening, sit back and relax at the open snacking facing the beach, may be with some drinks while soft jazz and reggae plays in the background. Alternately, if you are looking for some louder options, you might consider going to the Long Beach. Long Beach is a bit too far to walk, but is doable if you are comfortable. Alternately, you can ask the reception to arrange for water taxi. The nigh sea is rough, hence the ride is a very bumpy one.
    Rainforest beach during sunset
    • Swim with the bioluminescent phytoplanktons. Ideally, a no moon night is the best time to spot them. However, a cloudy night can also do the trick. We kept waiting at the beach for the moon to hide behind the clouds for some time. Then, we went into the water (a bit inside the sea, far from the beach and the lights, make sure it’s not too deep because the sea is very rough at night). Once inside, we waved our hands to see the sparkles in the water. It is really exciting. However, do not set your expectation by the images available on the internet, else you might be a bit disappointed as it does not look anything like those here.
    • Enjoy the serene environment of the rainforest in the darkness of the night, with nothing but the moon and stars for the company, peeking through the forest trees. It is pin drop silence except for the night insects, the sound of sea waves and the rustling of the trees.
    • Go snorkeling. Perhentians (big and small) and the surrounding islands offer very good snorkeling option, probably one of the best in Malaysia. A typical itinerary would include the Turtle point, the Fish point, the Shark point, the Turtle bay and the Blue lagoon.
    • Take a tour of the island. The Perhentian Kecil (small) island can be covered by walking. Alternately, if you don't want to tire yourself too much, you can opt for beach hopping trip, or, select which beaches you want to explore and arrange with the water taxis accordingly.
    Food:

    The campsite organizes buffet dinner and there are open food menu for the rest of the day. If you are going to join for the buffet dinner, you need to give your confirmation by 4 pm on that day. The food is good, although a bit expensive. But, if you want to opt out from the buffet dinner, you need to travel to the other beaches for food because once the kitchen closes down, there are no other meal options available in the beach. The nearest option is the Coral Bay, accessible from the Rainforest Beach via the jungle trail, but it is very dark at night so you need to carry a torch. Alternately, you might want to try seafood and barbecue at the Long Beach.

    Suggested itinerary (3D / 2N):

    Day 1: Arrive at the island / campsite. Go for round trip of the island and visit the various beaches like the Coral Bay, the Paradise beach, Long beach, etc. Enjoy the dinner at the Long beach with some fire shows. At the night, after 11 pm, when all the lights go off at the rainforest beach, swim with the phytoplanktons. But beware of the rough sea and do NOT go very deep into the water.

    Day 2: Take up the snorkeling trip. You will be back by 4:30 - 5:00 pm, so book the buffet dinner before you leave for the trip. Snorkel some more if you want after you come back to the rainforest beach, or just relax at the beach. Climb up to the sunset view point to catch the sunset view. Take up some drinks and enjoy the soft music with the sea view sitting on the open deck. After dinner, which is server at 8 pm, go to the beach and enjoy the night sea view or do start gazing or swim with the phytoplantons.

    Day 3: Snorkel around the beach and the surrounding. Enjoy some sunbathing and swimming until you depart by you 4 pm boat to the Kuala Besut pier.

    Saturday 3 September 2016

    Krabi, Thailand - 4D / 3N Itinerary

    Related article: Krabi


    Crab statue, Ao Nang Beach

    Summary: Planned a short visit to Krabi? Here is an itinerary to help you make most out of our short trip. This itinerary features 4 day 3 nights plan. If you are staying longer than that, check out this post.

    Note: Most of the trips to the islands depart latest by 2 pm, hence the itinerary has been chalked out accordingly. In case you are arriving later than that, you might want to keep the rest of that day free and easy. Try visiting the mainland attractions or go for shopping in the evening. Also, when talking about pick up and drop off, the itinerary assumes that you are staying in Ao Nang. If not, please check with your tour operator regarding the hotel pickup or meeting point details.

    Day 1: Four Islands

    Four Islands Tour

    For Four Islands, there are two departures available - Morning and Afternoon. Generally a half day trip, you can relax for the rest of the day. If you are taking the morning departure, you can go to one of the night markets in the evening; if you are taking the late departure, you can visit the Fossils beach and its adjacent Ao Nam Mao beach in the morning.

    The recommended one is, however, afternoon departure, as it comes with the option of night snorkeling with bio luminescent phytoplanktons. Rest of the itinerary remains more or less same for both the departures. Also, the afternoon departure caters for those who are flying to Krabi the same morning.

    Most of the tour operators will offer pick up from your hotels in Ao Nang. If they don't, try to book one that does: there are many. After pick up, you will be taken to the pier, where you will have to make the on-spot payment for the national park entry fees, 400 THB per adult.

    Day 2: Hong Islands

    Hong Island Lagoon

    You can start your day with the visit to the Hong Islands group, which is a full day trip. Opt for the tours offering kayaking options. You will ideally be back by evening.


    Day 3: Phi Phi Islands
    Phi Phi Island diving area
    For this one, you can either opt for snorkeling oriented or diving trip (1-day dive trips available), or you can go for island hopping. If you are opting for the island hopping, please keep in mind, the snorkeling opportunity will not be very good but you will get more of beach time. Similarly, for the snorkeling oriented or diving trips, there will be less to no beach time available.

    Day 4: Depending on your time of flight, you might opt for visiting some beaches or temples in the Krabi mainland before departing with a lot of memories to cherish.

    Staying longer? Check out this post